Broke exhaust bolt flush to head... HelpSubscribe to this blog RSS Feed
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    1 of 7
    2 years ago
    7 bolts came out soo so easy... But the right cylinder farthest out broke the head off... 
    96 bandit 600 by the way. So I purchased a external stud remover that you turn and tighten onto the stud and then turn it counterclockwise to keep it locked on and it was supposed to turn in the rest of the bolt out well it seized in there pretty good and it broke the little bit sticking out off flush to the cylinder head.

     luckily this is the easiest one to get to because it's on the farthest outside right cylinder on the farthest outside Bolt and I'm not sure how I want to go about trying to extract it this external extractor was a good tool and it's worked many of times on other stuff but this is the second time the bolts broken trying to take it out and that was using penetrating oils and he and tapping and all the other methods I could think of to loosen it before taking it out so I'm not sure that I want to try to drill into it and use an internal bolt remover because I'm afraid I'll just buy that tool and break it to I'm very very good with a drill and I was going to take my Dremel and make sure that is perfectly flush and then try to dead center hit it with a center punch and pilot drill and then drilled out and possibly retap it but I'm not sure if I want to go about it trying to go to the same thread or if I want to try to just drill it out enough oversized it slightly

     so please if anybody has anyting to say any opinion or advice I'm all ears at this point the whole reason I had to take the exhaust off completely was because somebody left their tailgate down on a pickup truck while I was going at a fairly High rate of speed and I hit the brick that fell out of the truck and it cracked my oil pan so I'm currently taking the oil pan off ordered new gaskets for that and going to take weld up the crack as hell did not actually punch a complete whole it just a fracture in a fairly easy and middle spot of the pan that's not near any

     even though it's cast aluminum I've had fairly decent luck TIG welding stuff like that as all it has to do is Seal so hold or oil it's not under any actual pressure or stress mechanically
     I posted earlier few days ago approximately a week ago about using new carburetor boots with the old seals will I went ahead and ordered those seals while I was at it and I'm going to pick up fuel lines replaced the brittle fuel line that's on there so I can take the tank off and get I posted earlier few days ago approximately a week ago about using new carburetor boots with the old seals will I went ahead and ordered those seals while I was at it and I'm going to pick up fuel lines replaced the brittle fuel line that's on there so I can take the tank off and get to the carburetors and air filter housing and make sure that everything is clean and not clogged along with considering taking the bowls off the carburetors one at a time possibly pulling the Jets just to blow them out make sure there's nothing clogged at them and putting it back together without changing tune hopefully.
     so I guess that's my second question if I were to just pull the bowl and pull the Jets out and reseat them exactly as they were positioned possibly using a scribe to make sure the marks line up so it's not slightly tighter or looser than it was Prior would that change any of the tuning issues or should I not mess with it I have a small dead spot in the throttle if you roll on the throttle hard around six to eight thousand RPM and it seems like it's running rich considering the soot in the exhaust so I'm thinking that the air filter may be clogged it really doesn't seem to act lean and I've kind of tried using the choke on a little bit and see if the dead spot goes away there for confirming if it would be lean or Rich it seems like it gets worse if I turn the choke on even the slightest amount.. 
    I don't think that the air filter system has been opened up for a long while... So I may pop in a new air filter  ...

     so please any advice on getting the old bolt out whether I should try an extractor or go ahead and just try drilling it out completely and tapping the hole either exactly the same thread in size or going up just so slightly so I'm into new and clean metal.
    also any advise in the cleaning bowls out.... If I should attempt it or even take out the plunger out of the top [diaphragm I thinks is the word] 
     I really don't want to change the tune on the bike or have to have it retuned or synchronized or anything so I don't plan on messing with anything that would cause D synchronization so please any advice on any of the subjects greatly appreciated sorry for such a long post guys I love you all
    2 of 7
    2 years ago
    I just ran into a similar situation where I had an ez-out break in a broken and stuck exhaust bolt. Those extractors are super hard. 

    I ended up having to take it to a machine shop and they spent an hour getting the extractor and bolt out for me. It's apparently a common failure mode. 
    3 of 7
    2 years ago
    so instead of risking that happen... I think drilling and tapping would be the best route... 
    I got a set that I can give going to 6x1.00 a try(original) thread... Then if not I can up to 7x1.00.
    which there's plenty of room for a little bit larger... I have no way to pay for it to go to the shop. 

    I'm a machine shop student... Yrs ago... But I feel fairly confident that I can do this by myself with a drill bit and holding my tounge right. 
    4 of 7
    2 years ago
    by the way...  I'll be using a right angle to line my bit on one axis and the other side Bolt as the angle of entry...  ...should work right;?
    5 of 7
    2 years ago
    Those extractors are super hard. Do you have a drill bit that will actually bite into it? 
    6 of 7
    2 years ago
    now I guess there is something missing in Translation here I used an external stud remover to grip onto what was left of the bolt sticking out and the bolt broke off flush there's no extractor stuck in the bolt I'm going to drill into the original Bolt and tap it and if going through the original size doesn't work I'm going to go up one size because I have the tools to do that but there's no extractor piece stuck in it the bolts literally broken off perfect flush to the top of the cylinder head exhaust outlet 
    7 of 7
    2 years ago
    Oh. I see. I misread. I thought you have used a reverse extractor that broke off ... my bad. 

    Yea, that's a much easier problem. 
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