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I've been doing a bunch of research on R1100S spline maintenance and am starting this thread as a place to put links and other tech information about these bikes.
For riders of other brands/bikes feel free to start a tech thread for your rides.
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Spline lube procedure for an R1100S:
Dr. Splinelube or How I stopped worrying and learn to love the bike A How-to Guide to lube input splines on an oilhead. The usual disclaimers apply li
Paralever Removal and Installation. NSFW for language:
NOTE WRONG DATA: The ABS sensor specs stated in the video are WRONG for EVO brake (power brake) bikes and only apply to ABS I and ABS II systems. Sorry for t...
Description of the final drive:
R1100 final drive spline lube procedure. (For a GS but should largely apply to an R11)
A thread on final drive bearing failure:
My 2002 R1100S BCX got a new set of shoes yesterday, and when I got home last night, I noticed a slight leak from the final drive seal. I wiped it
A page written by Anton:
More on final drive failures:
My final drive blew a seal, trans gear oil flowed out between the rim and the final drive unit. Talked to the dealer, they said most of the time it
More on the spline lube topic:
Last night I attended the BMW Club of Houston Club meeting with guest speakers of Paul and Voni Glaves. Paul writes wrenching stories for MOA and Voni
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So I noticed a significant oil stain under the joint between the drive shaft and the final drive.
When I pull back the boot, a good amount of oil came out.
My feeling is that this is an indication of a failed bearing.
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One of the techs, Steve, over at Bob's, who I respect tremendously, suggested because I had not changed in the oil in three years that before tearing it all apart, to make sure that there's no wobble in the wheel and that it spins without any roughness. If so, I should clean it up, refill it and run it for 600 miles then check it again. I picked up a stronger magnet plug which should make for a better test.
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There's about 1mm of movement in the rear wheel when trying to move it perpendicularly. The K100RS rear wheel has no play in it.
I think the bearings are shot. I'll take it up to Bob's and have them look at it to confirm.
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Rear wheel play info:
Folks, maybe I'm missing something, but I thought the whole point about owning a shaft-driven bike is that they require little or no maintenance. But
If there is any doubt, there isn't any.
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Some links isurfne
found covering topics related to fuel injection on oil heads:
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in 1986 I bought a K100rs over in Germany. I was told by a friend who was a bmw mech to always lube the drive shaft when you change the back tire and the bike has 306k on it now and my nephew is still riding strong. I had it for 185k and the splines started to wear I think he had them changed around 230k.
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My '92 K100RS is down for the count with a broken u-joint. I have yet to get into it but hope to start that project soon. The Paralever rear make it so the splines last much longer. Mine were only lubed once and we'll see how they look when I take it apart.
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A video that clearly explains oilhead spline failures:
Question: 'Why do the R1150 models strip clutch splines'? Answer: This video should explain it for you. There is an abundance of misinformation still circula...
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Results of running the R1100S on a dyno:
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I'm finally getting around to ordering tires for my 1999 BMW R1100S guest bike.
The stocks tires sizes are:
To my surprise, Pilot Road 3's for the rear in that size are no longer listed on Revzilla. However a Pilot Road 4 GT is available so I'm going to give those tires a try.
Purchase the Michelin Pilot Road 4 GT Tires at RevZilla Motorsports. Get the best free shipping & exchange deal anywhere, no restock fees and the lowest prices -- guaranteed.
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... that moment when you restart researching removing the transmission from an R1100S on google when you notice a link to your own site, on the first page of results ...
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Saving this for later:
So I bought myself a R1100S for my 50th birthday. I'd wanted one for years and this one was local to me. It's a 2001 sport model (no centre stand,
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Originally Posted by Nitro I am too waiting for one day for a catastrophic splines failure; it's in the back of my mind every time I ride the beemer...
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Clutch plate with extended spline hub for R1100S
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so you bought this one as a donor for the ‘99, or the other way around, or so that you could have the pleasure of maintaining two?
What’s the condition of the ‘01?
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Nope. I bought a new friction plate with an extended hub and a used replacement transmission for the guest bike. The plan is to pull the bike apart. Swap the clutch and transmission. And then bolt it all back together again before bruce
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I've been making some progress on pulling apart the #r1100s
guest bike. Strangely, the sheathing around the wiring harness is disintegrating. Touching it it just breaks off into small bits on the floor.
I imagine just wrapping it in electrical tape is not a good solution. In the BMW MOA forum over on Facebook I asked if anyone could suggest alternatives.
One person suggested:
Buy DEI 010491 Quick Fix Tape - Self-Curing, Waterproof Silicone Insulation Tape, 1" x 12' Roll - Black: Tool Kits - Amazon.com FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
Are there other alternatives?
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Amazon.com: uxcell 20mm Flexible Spiral Tube Cable Wire Wrap Computer Manage Cord Black 1M with Clip: Industrial & Scientific
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The consensus seems to be that this is the correct solution (available in multiple sizes):
20 FT 5/8" INCH Split Loom Tubing Wire Conduit Hose Cover Auto Home Marine Black: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
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Some other suggestions:
Buy Tesa Wire Loom Harness Tape Used By Mercedes BMW VW Audi: Electrical Tape - Amazon.com FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
Buy TechFlex F6 0.50 inch split sleeving 25ft: Cable Sleeves - Amazon.com FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
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Potentially a useful resource:
Unfinished race fairings.
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