For the transmission and final drive. The recommendation I have received from very knowledgeable sources is to /NOT/ use synthetic in these applications.

220cc for the final drive 
800cc for the transmission

It looks like I used the wrong anti-seize on the catalytic converter exhaust bolts. For high temperature applications, copper anti-seize must be used.

Does anyone have experience with the motobins kevlar replacement clutch friction plates for the R1100S? 
I installed the motobins kevlar clutch friction plate with extended splines into my '99 R1100S:


I also replaced the OEM Sachs diaphragm spring, pressure plate, cover plate and clutch bolts from this kit:


Which may be where I made my mistake.


The splines looked ok. I used honda moly lube on the them. 


The rear main seal showed no evidence of leakage but I chose the kevlar plate thinking if I did ever develop a leak far from home it'd be more likely to get me home (if the product description is to be believed.)


I installed it per the instructions in the Cylmer manual very carefully torquing everything to the specs listed using a high quality torque wrench.


I bled the clutch cylinders.


I did NOT replace the clutch slave cylinder.


All works fine. The bike shifts /much/ better. 1000 miles have been put on it now. However, upon riding it yesterday, I notice especially in first gear if I accelerate aggressively the clutch will break free. (Not track day aggressively, just normal street passing aggressively.)


Was this kevlar plate not the thing to use? 


Are the parts from the kit incompatible with this friction plate? 


Can you think of something I may have missed?

I'm endlessly misplacing fairing screws for the guest bike ('99 R1100S). 

I just placed an order for these to keep as spares. It's something I've been meaning to do for ages.

Yermo, I forgot to mention the vendor from which I got all of my Dzus fasteners;

So I made an #oops.

The BMW factory filler plug leaks like a sieve so I replaced it with a billet one similar but not exactly like this one:

Sadly, using the factory wrench it was far too easy to over-tighten the filler plug. What I did not realize is that each time I tightened it the set screws were slowly digging their way into the metal. 

On this last West Virginia mapping trip in the very cold, it finally let go completely allowing the sleeve to spin freely allowing oil to leak. 

I was convinced that I need to get a new valve cover. On Facebook, RubberChickenreached out and explained that I could just use this gasket maker, set the set screws, and let the assembly cure for 24 hours:

Then simply apply some silicone lubricant to the seal on the filler cap and carefully screw it in using a small wrench so as to not over-tighten it this time.

It was time to buy tires:

I've managed to destroy my left heated grip when pulling it off.