Suzuki DR650SE Tech Thread
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It seems the Barnett kit causes the clutch lever to be too hard to pull:
Barnett Clutch Kit DR650 - posted in DR: [color=#222222]I just installed the third clutch on my bike. The OE lasted 18K. I replaced it with an EBC kit which I just replaced at 33K with a Barnett kit. Although my old clutch still worked OK, I noticed the clutch slipping in higher gears when I snatch the throttle. The DR also didn't power wheelie like it did when the clutch was new. After replacing the clutch with the Barnett kit, I noticed significant improvement in response. The b...
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Regarding the Barnett clutch and the tight lever pull, could you just remove two of the springs? I've done this on my bike after installing a new set of plates and having all six springs in there prevented the hydraulic pushrod from getting enough clearance between the plates. Removing two springs took enough pressure off that it worked fine. Made the lever pull easier, too, and still was strong enough to keep the clutch from slipping. As the clutch plates wear down, I'll add the other two springs back in.
Ducatis of the era of my bike are known to have a tight clutch lever pull.
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Yea, that's a very good point. What some guys do is they use two of the stock springs and two of the barnett springs.
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Oh, just four springs? My bike has six, so I just took it down to four. Good luck.
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Barnett Clutch Kit ordered. It should arrive here in Los Alamos on Friday.
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I wasn't planning on it, but it looks like I may have to ride the Mighty DR down to Deal's Gap this year as my Beloved Blue Oil Burner is very sick.
So post-haste I'm ordering tires for the DR. The stock sizes are:
Front: 90/90-21 54T TT
Rear: 120/90-17 64T TT
I really liked the Mefo Explorers for everything except deep mud or sand. On pavement and gravel roads they are /fantastic/.
Purchase the Mefo Explorer Dual Sport Tires at RevZilla Motorsports. Get the best free shipping & exchange deal anywhere, no restock fees and the lowest prices -- guaranteed.
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I think that's a decent replacement tires.
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I love them. They seem to work very well in all conditions except deep mud or sand.
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"Experience is directly proportional to equipment ruined."
So to adjust the valves on the DR650 there's a cover over the flywheel bolt that needs to be removed. It requires a 10mm allen.
And it was seized hard. The hole is now completely stripped and I'm left having to use the rear wheel to turn the engine over. After doing some searches, it turns out that cover should only be removed when the engine is warm so in other words the night before you check the valves.
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Ouch! ouch! So the next question is, what's the fix?
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For the moment, I'm not going to try to remove the cover and will instead use the rear wheel to turn the engine over. It's a pain, but it's doable. I don't want to risk breaking something that might involve having to order long lead time parts.
There are a variety of suggestions ranging from dremeling a groove to taking the whole left side crankcase cover off. I figure in 7500 miles when the next valve check is due I can see about it then.
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, I came across this thread:
I tried to remove the inspection plug and stripped the 10mm hex hole. Is it right, or left hand thread? Now, how do I get it out? A new magneto cover is ar...
Because the metal of the cover is so soft one can, apparently, drive a 7/16 'spanner nut' into the rounded out hole to get enough grab to pull the cover off. But he notes it must be done with the engine warm. I wish the Clymer manual had mentioned that.
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I would tbink that trying to find TDC without seeing the marks on the flywheel and by turning the rear wheel would be a bit dicey.
My vote would be a heat gun on the side case and a large bolt extractor bit. If that doesn't work, cut a channel in the cover with a dremel tool and try an impact wrench after it is warm.
Sorry if i am joining this party late, do you have time to order a replacement cover?
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Fortunately, the timing marks are visible behind a separate smaller cover that I was able to remove, so i can in fact see the marks. The cover in question goes over the crank bolt. So it just means turning the motor is awkward but it's doable. i was supposed to be leaving tomorrow but my trip to NC has been pushed by a week due to weather.
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Sounds like it is probably doable then.
I've had the same problem with a very similar inspection port cover on the NT650GTs. Using anti-seize, drilling and safety wiring it after putting it on a tad looser than the factory torque spec has seemed to work well.
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Yea, next time when I have more time I'll likely do something similar.
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Hate stuck stripped bolts. I've had best luck with a torch and impact driver.
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That was my error. I did not use heat. Lesson (re)learned.
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If i only had $.10 for every re-learned lesson myself ....
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's help, we adjusted the valves on the might DR. To my surprise, they were hardly out of adjustment. Even with the plugs out and the transmission in top gear, there is quite a bit of resistance when turning the engine over using the rear wheel. Turning it such that the timing mark shows up in the inspection port is challenging. It's much easier with two people. Also, using a straw as a visual indicator of piston position made things easier.
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, it looks like Revzilla carries the SW Motech Skid Plates:
A beefy 4mm thick barrier is ready for anything thrown up at it, so charge down any road or trail with a SW-MOTECH Skid Plate.
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Talk about rear wheel
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Yikes! That's a solid fail 😬
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